Increasing the grass content of wildflower mixes
Effect of frost on wildflowers
Number of seeds in 1 gram packet
Germination time
wildflower seeds requiring special treatment
Introducing wildflowers into orchards
Introducing wildflowers into woodlands
Introducing wildflowers into damp areas
Wildflowers for pond edges
Establishing limestone grassland
Reducing the grass content within wildflower mixes
Wildflowers suitable under high fertility conditions
Reason for low sowing rate of meadow mixes
Flowering in the first year
Advantages of plugs against seed mixes
Disadvantages of plugs against seeds
Selecting suitable plant plugs
Planting wildflower plugs
Growing poppies and other cornfield annuals
Planting density for plugs
Choosing the right wildflower mix
What are the sowing rates for wildflower seeds and mixtures?
Suitable soil for growing cornfield annuals
Sowing cornfield annuals as a 'nurse' crop
Sowing rate for Cornfield annuals?
When is the best time to plant or sow wildflowers?
What types of soils are good for growing wildflowers?
Is it essential to remove the topsoil before sowing a grass and wildflower mixture?
How can I establish a “mini meadow” over a small area?
What ground preparation is necessary before sowing a grass and wildflower mixture?
Raising plant plugs from seeds
Should seeds be covered or left on the surface?
Plant plugs for orchards
Why is such a low sowing rate of 4grams per sq. metre recommended for wildflower mixtures?
Corncockle dominating cornfield annuals.
Planting density for plant plugs
Planting wildflower plugs
Measuring soil pH
Overseeding into existing grassland
Clearing grass and weeds
Growing wildflowers on fertile soils
How can I ensure even coverage when sowing?
Obtaining wildflowers of a specific colour
Wildflower plugs for high fertility conditions
Products subject to V.A.T.
Establishing a long flowering season
Finding photographs of our wildflowers
Finding flowering times, heights and habitats of individual wildflowers
Spanish bluebell issue
Is it possible to establish Wildflowers on a River bank?
Planting under mature trees
Growing wildflowers under extreme weather conditions
Attracting wildlife using wildflowers
Online ordering
Growing height of meadow grass
Finding wildflowers for a paticular habitat
Stabilizing banks
Methods of weed removal
School wildlife areas
Toxic wildflowers
Dealing with nettles/brambles
Obtaining orchids
Planting a hedgerow wildflower mixture
Wildflowers harmful to cattle
Obtaining locally indigenous species
Number of cuts per year
Planting density for Wildflower bulbs
Selecting wildflower bulbs
Bulbs coming up "blind"
Pros and cons of "in the green" snowdrops and snowdrop bulbs
Bulbs under large trees
Selecting trees and shrubs
Planting trees and shrubs
Creating a wildlife hedge
Trade/wholesale price lists
Planting density for trees and shrubs
Planting Wildflower bulbs
Cutting Wildflower grasslands
Removing grass cuttings
Oxeye daisy dominating in 1st year
Controlling grass growth with Yellow Rattle
Postage charges
Provenance of our wildflowers
Grants for creating areas of wildflower grassland
Type of grasses used in our mixtures
Reducing costs of sowing large areas
"custom" meadow mixes
Establishing field margins
Q: Increasing the grass content of wildflower mixes
Is it possible to increase the amount of grass in a meadow mixture?
A:
We are occasionally asked to supply 90% meadow grass and 10% Wildflower versions of our mixtures. This is mainly in the interest of saving costs over larger areas. It should be noted however that such mixtures would normally take much longer to establish. We can also supply grass only versions of our mixtures without any wildflowers. Please call us for details.
Q: Effect of frost on wildflowers
Do wildflower seedlings need to be protected from frost?
A:
No wildflowers are fully hardy and the vast majority will fully recover from even the severest frost. Always ensure that seedlings left out over winter are not allowed to dry out.
Q: Number of seeds in 1 gram packet
How many seeds can I expect to receive if I order a 1 gram packet?
A:
Wildflower seeds come in many different shapes and sizes. Some are particularly large and a 1 gram packet of Yellow Flag iris (Iris pseudacorus) seed will contain approximately 20 seeds. At the other extreme some wildflower seeds are more like dust particles. A 1 gram packet of Common centaury (Centaurium erythraea) for example will contain a staggering total of around 80,000 seeds! Many wildflowers are tricky and often erratic germinators. For this reason we have always preferred to sell seed by weight thus ensuring that every packet will contain sufficient number of seeds to produce a good number of seedling.
Q: Germination time
How long do wildflower seeds take to germinate?
A:
Some wildflower seeds generally germinate very readily and easily. Species such as kidney vetch and birdsfoot trefoil often take only 2 or 3 days to emerge.
Unlike some ordinary flower seeds however, wildflower seeds have not been genetically modified by humans for easy germination and as such there are certain varieties that are notoriously difficult to grow. In fact, many wildflowers seeds have built in mechanisms designed to prevent them from germinating until conditions are right and it is not uncommon for certain species to take 2 or even 3 seasons to germinate. There are however 2 forms of treatment that can be used to speed up the germination process in certain species namely scarification and stratification (sometimes referred to as vernalisation) and this is dealt with as a separate question. The golden rule however is not to give up on a tray of seed that you have sown. If it has failed to germinate within the warm conditions of a greenhouse or cold frame then move the tray outside over winter where the weather should help to break down the seeds outer coating.
Q: wildflower seeds requiring special treatment
Do wildflower seeds require any special treatment prior to sowing?
A:
The 2 forms of special treatment are as follows:
a. Scarification: This is where hard coated seeds can be encouraged to germinate more readily by rubbing between two sheets of sandpaper hence allowing moisture to penetrate more readily. Within our range of seeds this applies to Rockrose, Meadow Cranesbill, Trefoils and Vetches, Bluebell, Ribbed melilot and sainfoin.
b. Stratification: sometimes referred to as vernalisation this is where a seed needs to be subjected to a period of chilling before germination will occur. Mixing with some moist compost and placing the seed in a refrigerator at just above freezing for approx 8 weeks can achieve this. Alternatively seed can be sown outdoors in the autumn for germination the following spring. Within our range of seeds this treatment applies to Mignonette, Bluebell, Weld, Sweet cicely, Hemp agrimony, Clustered bellflower, Wild Carrot, Yellow Flag iris, Water avens, Yellow rattle, Meadow sweet and most notably primulas.
Q: Introducing wildflowers into orchards
I own an orchard into which I would like to introduce wildflowers. How can this be achieved?
A:
Follow the advice within the section “general planting and sowing” and select our meadow mixture for woodland and hedgerow areas. (click here)
Q: Introducing wildflowers into woodlands
I own a small woodland into which I would like to introduce wildflowers. How can this be achieved?
A:
Follow the advice within the section “general planting and sowing” and if the woodland is relatively new select our meadow mixture for woodland and hedgerow areas. (click here)
If the woodland is mature and the area to be sown is within heavy shade then we recommend a mixture of pure wildflower seed without meadow grass. Please call us for a quotation. You may also wish to consider introducing plant plugs such as red campion, st John’s wort (click here) or woodland bulbs such as bluebell, snowdrops, wood anemones etc. (click here)
Q: Introducing wildflowers into damp areas
I own a small area of wetland that regularly floods in winter into which I would like to introduce wildflowers. How can this be achieved?
A:
Follow the advice within the section “general planting and sowing” and select our meadow mixture wet soils or suitable plant plugs. (click here)
Q: Wildflowers for pond edges
I should like to introduce some wildflowers around a pond in an area that is damp all through the year. Can this be achieved?
A:
Follow the advice within the section “general planting and sowing” and select our meadow mixture Pond edges (click here) or suitable plant plugs. (click here)
If the soil dries out in summer consider the use of our Wet or clay soil mixture instead. (click here)
Q: Establishing limestone grassland
Is it possible to establish species typical of chalk and limestone grasslands?
A:
Yes but these species are very slow growing and uncompetitive and for successful establishment a low fertility, calcareous soil with a high pH is essential. Such soils would normally contain a large proportion of visible chalk or limestone pieces. We offer a special mixture for this purpose. (click here)
Q: Reducing the grass content within wildflower mixes
Is it possible to reduce the amount of grass in a meadow mixture?
A:
Nearly all our meadow mixtures consist of 80% meadow grass and 20% Native wildflowers. This is a tried and tested formula that is well proven and we do not normally recommend any increase in the wildflower content beyond 20%. We can however provide 100% wildflower versions of all our mixtures, useful for over sowing into existing meadow grass. Please call us for details.
Q: Wildflowers suitable under high fertility conditions
What wildflowers are likely to compete well and establish successfully on fertile soils?
A:
The following species in our experience are all strong growing and compete well. We can supply all the species listed below as plant plugs (click here)
Yarrow
Common Sorrel
Black Knapweed
Greater Knapweed
Teasel
Lady’s Bedstraw
Meadow Cranesbill
Common St John’s Wort
Field Scabious
Oxeye Daisy
Cowslip
Selfheal
White campion
Red Campion.
In addition we can provide a seed mixture specifically tailored for fertile soils. (click here)
Q: Reason for low sowing rate of meadow mixes
Why is such a low sowing rate of 4grams per sq. metre recommended for wildflower mixtures?
A:
A low sowing rate is used to encourage a somewhat patchy open grass sward in the short term. This helps to create receptive conditions necessary for the development of wildflower seedlings. Eventually the sward will thicken and close up.
Q: Flowering in the first year
Will a grass and wildflower mixture flower in the first year?
A:
No, our mixture contain slow growing perennial wildflowers that take several seasons to fully establish. If flowering is required in the first year then it is essential to use a nurse crop of cornfield annuals. The use of plant plugs may also lead to some limited flowering in the first year.
Q: Advantages of plugs against seed mixes
What are the advantages of using plant plugs rather than seeds?
A:
Wildflower plugs generally give more reliable and quicker results than seeds.
Q: Disadvantages of plugs against seeds
Are there any disadvantages of using plant plugs?
A:
The main disadvantage is the cost. For the same sized area plugs will cost around 4 times that of using a seed mixture. Planting plugs is also more labour intensive than sowing!
Q: Selecting suitable plant plugs
How can I select the best plant plugs for my plot?
A:
We grow a range of approximately 30 different plant plug species to cover all the main habitats and also offer a range of plug selections. From the main menu on our website select “plant plugs and plants” (click here)
Our site also features a “wildflower finder” under the help and advice section, which you should find helpful for this purpose. (click here)
Q: Planting wildflower plugs
How and when should plant plugs be planted?
A:
Cut any existing grass as short as possible in the areas where the plugs are to be introduced and create a small hole where the plug is to be introduced. (You may find a bulb dibber useful for this) An alternative method is to remove a shallow divot of grass and earth using a spade. This is then turned upside down and put back into the hole from which it was removed. The plug is then introduced into the topside. This has the advantage of creating a small bare area around the plant plug free of competition. Introduce the plug into the soil and firm in well. Plugs will need to be kept well watered for around 2 weeks following planting. Some species notably primulas are particularly sensitive and a close eye should be kept on them in dry weather. The best time for introducing wildflower plugs into the soil is spring and autumn
Q: Growing poppies and other cornfield annuals
Can I introduce Poppies and other cornfield plants into an existing Wildflower meadow?
A:
Unfortunately cornfield annuals including Corn poppy are not able to compete with existing grass. To grow a cornfield mixture you will need to create an area of bare soil. Most cornfield plants are also annuals so the area will need to be dug over and reseeded every year. If the plants are left to set seed for several seasons in succession eventually there should be a large enough seed bank in the soil to avoid the need for annual reseeding. However it will still be essential to dig the area over each autumn to trigger germination. We have 2 cornfield mixtures to choose from, available with or without meadow grass. (click here)
Q: Planting density for plugs
What is the recommended planting density when using plant plugs?
A:
We normally suggest a planting rate of 3 or 4 plugs per square metre. For larger areas (tennis court size or more) this rate can be reduced. When viewed over a large area a low planting density (1 plug per sq. metre) can still produce dramatic results. Rather than planting whole areas, an alternative method is to plant in small pockets. Given the required conditions these will eventually seed into the surrounding areas
Q: Choosing the right wildflower mix
How can I select the correct meadow mixture for my plot?
A:
Consideration should always be given to the soil type and situation.
Most soils fall into the category of clay, sandy or loam (midway between sand and clay). Other less frequently encountered soils include acid (e.g. peat) and chalk or limestone. Consideration should also be given to the light levels, which if low may mean a woodland mixture is required. Similarly if the soil is unusually moist, a wet soil or pond edge mix may be needed. By selecting a mixture well matched to the site you will achieve the best long-term results. If there is a great deal of uncertainty to the soil type then select a general-purpose mixture.
We provide mixtures for all of the above situations and our website features a meadow mix calculator which will help you select the best one and also determine the correct amount of seed required. It can be found under the “wildflower search” heading at the top of the screen and also under “help and “advice” (click here)
Q: What are the sowing rates for wildflower seeds and mixtures?
What are the sowing rates for wildflower seeds and mixtures?
A:
Grass and Wildflower mixtures 4 grams per square metre or 16 Kgs per acre
100% wildflower mixtures 1 grams per square metre or 4 Kgs per acre
Cornfield mixture 2 grams per square metre or 8 Kgs per acre
Individual wild flower seeds 1 gram per square metre
Meadow grass 5 grams per square metre or 20 Kgs per acre
The above are the recommended sowing rates which can occasionally be reduced to reduce costs, however it should be noted that this can leave the ground somewhat open to weed invasion and lengthen the establishment time.
Q: Suitable soil for growing cornfield annuals
I understand that wildflowers grow best on poor soils. Is this the case with cornfield mixtures?
A:
If cornfield mixtures are being sown alone and without a perennial wildflower and grass mixture, then it is best to choose a site with a rich fertile soil. This is the exception to the normal rule.
Q: Sowing cornfield annuals as a 'nurse' crop
I understand it is advantageous to sow a Cornfield mixture at the same time as a perennial grass and wildflower mixture. How should this be done and what are the benefits?
A:
This technique is known as ‘nursing’. Perennial wildflowers are generally slow to germinate and establish. By contrast cornfield annuals germinate and grow quickly. This can help to reduce the extent of weed invasion following sowing and leads to a good display of colour in the first season. It also means virtually no maintenance is required until after the annuals have flowered. Cornfield annuals can also have the benefit of helping to stabilise steep banks and preventing smaller seeds being washed away by surface water run off. Choose a mixture of cornfield annuals WITHOUT grasses if using as a nurse. (click here)
Q: Sowing rate for Cornfield annuals?
What is the sowing rate for Cornfield annuals?
A:
The sowing rate for cornfield annuals is generally 2 grams per square metre. When using cornfield annuals as a nurse crop over very large areas significant benefits can still be achieved even if the sowing rate is reduced to 1 Kilogram per acre.
Q: When is the best time to plant or sow wildflowers?
When is the best time to plant or sow wildflowers?
A:
Wildflower seeds can be sown at any time of year but the best time is generally spring or autumn.
Wildflower plants can be planted between May and September.
Wildflower bulbs should be planted in late October/early November.
Trees and shrubs can only be planted between March and November whilst fully dormant.
Q: What types of soils are good for growing wildflowers?
What types of soils are good for growing wildflowers?
A:
By far the most important consideration when choosing a site for a wildflower meadow is soil fertility. If possible choose a site with generally poor quality soil. The best meadows can always be found on infertile soils. Wildflowers do not compete well with grasses and weeds both of which tend to be found and grow more strongly on soils rich in nutrients.
Q: Is it essential to remove the topsoil before sowing a grass and wildflower mixture?
Is it essential to remove the topsoil before sowing a grass and wildflower mixture?
A:
Removing topsoil will normally be beneficial in the long term however this is not always practical. In the event that the topsoil cannot be removed ensure a seed mixture is chosen that contains strong, robust wildflowers such as knapweeds, field scabious, meadow cranesbill, teasel, agrimony. Rich topsoil will also mean more cutting in the first few years to control grasses. Always sow a nurse crop of cornfield annuals to suppress weed growth and also consider introducing any wildflowers as plant plugs rather than seed and using Yellow Rattle, a semi parasitic meadow plant that can be used to reduce grass growth.
Q: How can I establish a “mini meadow” over a small area?
How can I establish a “mini meadow” over a small area?
A:
For areas of less than 5 x 5 metres it is best to sow a grass and wildflower mixture in the normal way but also introduce wildflower plant plugs at between 2 and 4 per square metre. (click here)
This can be done at the same time as the sowing or at a later date when the grass is beginning to establish.
Q: What ground preparation is necessary before sowing a grass and wildflower mixture?
What ground preparation is necessary before sowing a grass and wildflower mixture?
A:
Seed mixtures should be sown onto a carefully prepared weed free seedbed. Dig over thoroughly; remove any stones and then fine rake before sowing.
Larger areas can be ploughed and then chain harrowed.
Q: Raising plant plugs from seeds
How should individual wildflowers be raised from seed?
A:
Individual packets of wildflower seed can be sown directly outside but in our experience this can often turn out to be a costly waste of seed. The difficulty lies in telling apart the emerging wildflower seedlings from those of weeds that will require removal. It is therefore far better to sow individual wildflower seeds in trays of compost. When they reach the “3 leaf” stage they can be pricked out into small 3cm cells and raised into small plugs. Once the plugs are fully rooted they can either be transplanted outside into a carefully prepared nursery bed or potted onto into larger pots before being planted into their permanent planting position.
Q: Should seeds be covered or left on the surface?
Should seeds be covered or left on the surface?
A:
Wildflower seeds are in general rather small and therefore best sown either on or immediately below the surface of the soil. Some such as Corn poppy also require light for germination. For this reason we suggest that seeds are rolled or firmed into the soil surface
Q: Plant plugs for orchards
I own an orchard into which I would like to introduce wildflowers. How can this be achieved?
A:
Each year we receive enquiries from people hoping to introduce wildflowers into orchards, but are not necessarily prepared to remove the existing grass. The following species are all able to withstand grass competition and are well suited to full sun or semi-shade. Introduce as plant plugs and select as required from our range. (click here)
Before planting create a small bare area around the spot where the plant plug is to be introduced to avoid initial competition.
Field scabious
Meadow cranesbill
Oxeye daisy
Tufted vetch
Musk mallow
Alternatively, introduce suitable wildflower bulbs such as Star of Bethlehem, Wild tulip or Snakeshead fritillary. (click here)
If you are prepared to re-seed the orchard, then select our hedgerow mixture.
(click here)
Q: Why is such a low sowing rate of 4grams per sq. metre recommended for wildflower mixtures?
Why is such a low sowing rate of 4grams per sq. metre recommended for wildflower mixtures?
A:
A low sowing rate is used to encourage a somewhat patchy open grass sward in the short term. This helps to create receptive conditions necessary for the development of wildflower seedlings. Eventually the sward will thicken and close up.
Q: Corncockle dominating cornfield annuals.
I sowed a mixture of cornfield annuals and corncockle is dominating. Why is this?
A:
All of our mixtures are formulated to try and give an even balance of species. Occasionally the timing of the sowing and weather conditions at the time can lead to the dominance of a particular species. This seems to happen occasionally with corncockle. If the mix was sown as a nurse crop then the main objective should still have been achieved the plant itself can be easily controlled by strimming or dead heading.
Q: Planting density for plant plugs
What is the recommended planting density when using plant plugs?
A:
We normally suggest a planting rate of 3 or 4 plugs per square metre. For larger areas (tennis court size or more) this rate can be reduced. When viewed over a large area a low planting density (1 plug per sq. metre) can still produce dramatic results. Rather than planting whole areas, an alternative method is to plant in small pockets. Given the required conditions these will eventually seed into the surrounding areas.
Q: Planting wildflower plugs
How and when should plant plugs be planted?
A:
Cut any existing grass as short as possible in the areas where the plugs are to be introduced and create a small hole where the plug is to be introduced. (You may find a bulb dibber useful for this) An alternative method is to remove a shallow divot of grass and earth using a spade. This is then turned upside down and put back into the hole from which it was removed. The plug is then introduced into the topside. This has the advantage of creating a small bare area around the plant plug free of competition. Introduce the plug into the soil and firm in well. Plugs will need to be kept well watered for around 2 weeks following planting. Some species notably primulas are particularly sensitive and a close eye should be kept on them in dry weather. The best time for introducing wildflower plugs into the soil is spring and autumn
Q: Measuring soil pH
How can I measure soil pH ?
A:
Test kits for measuring soil pH are available from most D.I.Y. stores
When planting wildflowers soil pH is generally only of importance if the soil is extremely acid below pH .5 or extremely alkaline over pH 7.5. Examples of such soil may include Greensand southern heaths, upland peat or soils where there are a large proportion of visible chalk or limestone pieces. Normally soil fertility is the most important factor.
Q: Overseeding into existing grassland
Can Wildflower seed be introduced into existing grassland?
A:
Yes but the success of this technique is limited and depends on the growing conditions and the type of grassland into which the Wildflower seed is being introduced. Generally fine growing meadow grasses are required that do not grow too rapidly or tall. Consider using plugs if at all possible. If seed is to be used then follow this technique:
Initially cut the grass as low as possible, and then remove cuttings and surface moss. If necessary lightly scarify the soil surface. Sow at a rate of 1gm per sq. metre ensuring good soil contact. Rake in well and if necessary water with a fine hose. Cut the grass regularly during the first year maintaining at a height of approx. 3 inches and remove any unwanted weeds as soon as they appear. DO NOT USE ANY FERTILIZER DURING THIS PROCESS.
Q: Clearing grass and weeds
Is it possible to remove existing grasses?
A:
One or more applications of a suitable weed killer such as round up is normally the most effective way of removing existing grass and most other vegetation.
Q: Growing wildflowers on fertile soils
Is it possible to establish Wildflowers on highly fertile soil?
A:
The problem with fertile soils is that they encourage rapid weed and grass growth and in general wildflowers do not compete well with other species. There is no quick solution to reducing high soil fertility. The presence of nettles, docks, brambles and other strong growing weeds are normally an indication of highly fertile soils and where possible these areas should be avoided. If this is not possible then we suggest the following guidelines:
Consider using plant plugs rather than seed and choose the most competitive species available (we have put together a separate question listing these species)
If using seeds then choose a wildflower mixture specially designed for fertile areas, which will contain generally strong competitive species. (click here)
Prepare ground very thoroughly if necessary using several applications of herbicide.
Use a nurse crop of cornfield annuals to establish quick ground cover and reduce weed invasion.
Maintain the height of the sward meticulously to 3 or 4 inches for the first few seasons to allow seedlings/plugs to establish.
Spot treat any persistent weeds as soon as they appear.
Q: How can I ensure even coverage when sowing?
How can I ensure even coverage when sowing?
A:
For small to medium sized areas the seed mixture can be divided into 2 equal sized packets. The first amount should then be sown by walking up and down the plot and the second amount sown by walking across the plot at right angles to the first sowing. This should ensure that any areas missed on the first run are covered the second time and lead to more even coverage. For larger areas it may be helpful to mix the seed with a little silver sand, which is available from most garden centres. This contrasts well with the soil showing up sown areas. Mix in the ratio of approximately 10-20:1 by volume of silver sand to seed. Ideally choose a calm windless day for sowing.
Q: Obtaining wildflowers of a specific colour
Can I buy wildflowers of a certain colour?
A:
Our website features a “wildflower finder” which can be used to easily produce lists of species of a particular colour. This can be found under the “help and advice” section at the top of the screen. (click here)
Q: Wildflower plugs for high fertility conditions
What wildflower plugs are likely to compete well and establish successfully on fertile soils?
A:
The following species in our experience are all strong growing and compete well. We can supply all the species listed below as plant plugs (click here)
Yarrow
Common Sorrel
Black Knapweed
Greater Knapweed
Teasel
Lady’s Bedstraw
Meadow Cranesbill
Common St John’s Wort
Field Scabious
Oxeye Daisy
Cowslip
Selfheal
White campion
Red Campion
Q: Products subject to V.A.T.
Are our products subject to V.A.T.?
A:
At present we are non-V.A.T. registered so the price displayed on line is the price you pay although a small charge for postage will be added when you submit your order based on the order value.
Q: Establishing a long flowering season
How can I establish an area of wildflowers with a long flowering season?
A:
Our meadow mixtures all contain a wide number of species with a broad flowering period. Generally speaking wildflowers fall into 2 categories, spring flowering e.g. cowslip and summer flowering eg. Black knapweed. To encourage a spring meadow it is essential to cease cutting early in the year around March. To encourage summer flowering, cutting can continue later until around May. There are a few species that flower in August and September but peak flowering is normally June and July. Our website features a “wildflower finder” which can be used to determine which species flower at particular times of the year. This can be found under the “help and advice” section at the top of the screen. (click here)
Q: Finding photographs of our wildflowers
Where can I find a photograph of a particular wildflower?
A:
Our website contains an extensive library of photographs for most of the species that we sell. Look out for the small green “i” or information buttons. When clicked a photograph of the plant will be displayed together with information on the habitat, colour, flowering time and growing height.
Q: Finding flowering times, heights and habitats of individual wildflowers
Where can information about the flowering time, height and habitat of a particular wildflower?
A:
Our website contains an extensive library of photographs for most of the species that we sell. Look out for the small green “i” or information buttons. When clicked information be displayed about the habitat, colour, flowering time and growing height together with a photograph of the plant.
Q: Spanish bluebell issue
I have heard much about the controversy surrounding “Spanish bluebells”. How can I be sure that I will receive the English variety?
A:
We are aware of the problems surrounding the supply of Spanish bluebell and only source the Native British species.
Q: Is it possible to establish Wildflowers on a River bank?
Is it possible to establish Wildflowers on a River bank?
A:
Riverbanks are generally rich in vegetation and often contain a build up of nutrients.
They should be in the same way as fertile soils on arable land. An addition problem is the steepness meaning they are usually inaccessible for regular cutting.
We suggest the following guidelines:
Consider using plant plugs rather than seed and choose the most competitive species available (we have put together a separate question listing these species)
If using seeds then choose a wildflower mixture specially designed for fertile areas, which will contain generally strong competitive species. (click here)
This mixture even when left uncut will provide an ideal habitat for small mammals, birds, amphibians etc which in turn attract birds of prey e.g. Barn owls.
Prepare the bank as best as possible removing as many weeds as possible. Always take appropriate steps to avoid the possibility of any herbicide entering a watercourse.
Use a nurse crop of cornfield annuals to establish quick ground cover and reduce weed invasion.
Take into consideration the risk of seeds being washed off steep banks either by rainwater, or a rise in water levels.
Spot treat any persistent weeds as soon as they appear.
Always ensure personal safety when working close to water bodies.
Q: Planting under mature trees
I wish to try planting wildflowers in a bare area under a very large mature tree where very nothing else seems to grow. Will any wildflowers establish in such an area?
A:
In our experience the soil in this type of situation is not only too dry but also too impoverished for growing wildflowers and it is unlikely that they will flower. Planting is best done several metres away from any large trees in areas where the soil is richer and less dry.
Q: Growing wildflowers under extreme weather conditions
Will our wildflowers grow anywhere in the British Isles?
A:
Yes our wildflowers are fully hardy and will generally take anything that the British climate has to offer. The best species however will be those that are already growing locally. To check which plant species are locally indigenous to your area we suggest that you visit the “plants by postcode” database which is part of the natural history museum’s website.
Q: Attracting wildlife using wildflowers
I would like to attract more wildlife by using wildflowers. How can this be done and what varieties should I use?
A:
In an average sized garden the secret to attracting wildlife is to recreate the habitats found in the wild. A mini-woodland or wildlife hedge, a pond or wetland a meadow or a good wildflower border will all be of tremendous benefit to local wildlife.
Generally nearly all wildflowers will be beneficial for wildlife through the insects they attract and cover they provide. Some however are better than others when it comes to attracting birds and butterflies through the seeds or nectar they produce. Notably buddleia is good for attracting butterflies and Teasel and cornflower good for attracting goldfinches.
Butterflies have specific requirements for breeding and will only lay there eggs on the leaves of certain plants. Our website features a “wildflower finder” which can be used to determine which species are of most benefit for wildlife. This can be found under the “help and advice” section at the top of the screen. (click here)
In addition we offer various selections of seeds and plant plugs specifically put together for attracting wildlife together with a range of wildflower gardening kits for different sized gardens.
Q: Online ordering
How can I be sure that ordering through wildflowers(uk) is secure?
A:
By selecting to pay by credit/debit card you will be taken to SecPay's secure website where payment for your order can be made using most major cards. For more information about SecPay please visit their website. (click here)
Payments can also be accepted by cheque or if you have internet/ telephone banking by direct bank transfer.
Q: Growing height of meadow grass
Is it possible to obtain a mixture of very low growing grasses?
A:
The precise height to which grasses will grow will depend upon growing conditions in particular soil fertility.
Those used within the majority of our mixtures are non-competitive meadow grasses. These are all generally low growing especially under low fertility.
Q: Finding wildflowers for a paticular habitat
Can I buy wildflowers for a particular habitat?
A:
Our website features a “wildflower finder” which can be used to easily produce lists of species for specific habitats. This can be found under the “help and advice” section at the top of the screen. (click here)
Q: Stabilizing banks
How can I stabilize a bank and prevent further erosion?
A:
A combination of an appropriate grass and wildflower mixture together with the use of suitable trees and shrubs can be very effective in stabilizing banks where little or no vegetation is present. Our wildflower mixtures are however slow growing and take some time to establish. Consider the use of plant plugs and cornfield annuals as a nurse crop to provide quick cover and reduce the risks of seeds being washed off steep banks.
Q: Methods of weed removal
Is there an alternative to using chemical herbicides prior to sowing?
A:
The simplest and most effective way to minimise weed invasion is to initially use a suitable herbicide e.g. Round up prior to ground cultivation. However this can then be followed by the “stale seedbed technique”
Time permitting this technique involves the repeated shallow cultivation of soil and is effective against annual weeds, which will always emerge following tillage. Early site preparation is essential 4 to 6 weeks prior to sowing if this technique is to be used successfully.
Q: School wildlife areas
We are trying to create a wildflower/wildlife area within our school. How can this be best achieved?
A:
School wildlife areas can be treated in similar ways to gardens though safety in terms of ponds and toxic plants should always be the most important consideration?
Mini-woodlands, wildlife hedges, meadows and wildflower borders can all be incorporated.
Our website features a “wildflower finder” which can be used to produce a list of species containing toxins that are best avoided e.g. foxglove. This can be found under the “help and advice” section on the top menu and then follow the instructions at the bottom of the screen. (click here)
Our wildflower finder can also be used to produce lists of wildflower species good for attracting wildlife such as butterflies.
Q: Toxic wildflowers
Are any of the wildflowers we sell poisonous?
A:
Some of our seeds and bulbs do contain toxins and we therefore suggest that they are always kept out of reach of small children. Our website features a “wildflower finder” which can be used to produce a list of species containing toxins. This can be found under the “help and advice” section on the top menu and then follow the instructions at the bottom of the screen.
Q: Dealing with nettles/brambles
I have an area into where I would like to grow wildflowers but the area is covered with nettles and brambles. How can these be cleared?
A:
The presence of nettles and brambles indicate high soil fertility and such areas are best avoided if at all possible as they will generally be unsuitable for growing wildflowers.
Q: Obtaining orchids
Can I introduce native orchids?
A:
The introduction of Native British orchids is difficult to achieve and requires very specific conditions. As such we do not offer orchid seed either individually or within our range of meadow mixtures. A specialist supplier should be sought.
Q: Planting a hedgerow wildflower mixture
I wish to establish wildflowers along a hedgerow. How can this be achieved?
A:
Follow the advice within the section “general planting and sowing” and if the hedge is facing North or East with reasonable select our meadow mixture for woodland and hedgerow areas. (click here)
Alternatively select a general purpose mixture. (click here)
Q: Wildflowers harmful to cattle
Are any of the wildflowers in our mixtures harmful to cattle?
A:
We do not use any species known to be harmful to animals such as ragwort. Most animals are very selective in the way that they graze.
Q: Obtaining locally indigenous species
Can I buy wildflowers that will reflect the locally indigenous species to my area?
A:
To check which plant species are locally indigenous to your area we suggest that you visit the “plants by postcode” database which is part of the natural history museum’s website. (click here)
You can then search our website to see which seeds we offer (we have around 160 to choose from). Select “search by plant name under the “help and advice section at the top of the screen.
Q: Number of cuts per year
How often should my meadow be cut following sowing?
A:
The number of cuts required per year will depend almost entirely upon the soil fertility and to a certain extent growing conditions. On fertile sites it is likely that between 4 and 7 cuts will be necessary. Under low fertility between 1 and 4 cuts will be required. The golden rule in the first few seasons is to cut as often as necessary in order to prevent the grasses smothering the developing wildflowers. Normally this would involve at least some cutting in spring, followed by a hay cut in July after flowering, and a tidy up cut in the autumn.
Unfortunately neglect is a recipe for complete failure and it should be remembered, if you can’t mow, don’t sow!
Please note that if cornfield annuals have been used as a nurse crop then no cutting will be required until just after flowering.
Q: Planting density for Wildflower bulbs
What is the recommended planting density when using wildflower bulbs?
A:
There is no specific recommended planting density however bulbs often look best planted close together in clumps of between 10 to 100.
If trying to create large swathes of bluebells then the use of seed is recommended. Bluebell seed will take several seasons to mature into flowering bulbs but is often the only cost effective solution for large areas.
Q: Selecting wildflower bulbs
How can I select the best wildflower bulbs for my plot?
A:
Wildflower bulbs generally fall into 2 categories
Woodland bulbs such as bluebells, snowdrops, aconite, wood anemone, and ransoms (wild garlic) suitable for planting into bare areas of soil rich in leaf mould and with plenty of shade.
Spring meadow bulbs such as Star of Bethlehem, Wild daffodils, Wild tulip, and Snakeshead fritillary suitable for planting into areas of grassland.
We offer all the above bulbs either individually or within collections for October dispatch. (click here)
Q: Bulbs coming up "blind"
I planted bulbs last autumn and although foliage appeared the following spring there were no or very few flowers?
A:
It is not uncommon for bulbs to come up “blind” in the first spring following planting especially with wild daffodils. The bulb needs time to settle into its new position and the normal pattern is for more and more flowers to be noted each year.
Q: Pros and cons of "in the green" snowdrops and snowdrop bulbs
What are the advantages of planting “in the green” snowdrops in March instead of snowdrop bulbs in October?
A:
Snowdrop bulbs can give very good results given the correct conditions but are generally less reliable than using “in the green” snowdrops. In our experience in the green snowdrops are also far easier to plant!
Q: Bulbs under large trees
I wish to try planting bulbs in a bare area under a very large mature tree where very nothing else seems to grow. Will wildflower bulbs work in such an area?
A:
In our experience the soil in this type of situation is not only too dry but also too impoverished for growing bulbs and it is unlikely that they will flower. Woodland bulb planting is best done several metres away from any large trees in areas where the soil is moist and rich in leaf mould.
Q: Selecting trees and shrubs
How can I select the best trees and shrubs for my plot?
A:
The trees and shrubs offered through our website are divided into 3 categories for easy selection. (click here)
a. Native woodland category- consisting of generally tall growing species. The habitat/soil requirements can be found by clicking on the information buttons alongside each species.
b. Wildlife cover category-consisting of low growing (to about 5m) trees and shrubs suited to small/medium sized gardens and particularly good for attracting wildlife and game cover. The trees in this category will also tolerate a wide range of soils and conditions and can also be used for under planting existing woodland or creating a woodland edge habitat.
c. Hedge plant category- the species within this category are suitable for creating a “wildlife hedge” which will be of maximum benefit to roosting and nesting birds and with which a number of animal and flower species should soon become associated.
Q: Planting trees and shrubs
How and when should native trees and shrubs be planted?
A:
Trees and shrubs are supplied bare rooted and can only be planted whilst dormant between November and March. Your trees and shrubs will be supplied in a frost proof bag. Ideally they should be planted immediately but if this is not possible leave them in the sealed bag in an area protected from frost. Under no circumstances should the roots be allowed to dry out. When ready to plant dig a small hole about twice the size of the root ball. A little compost or manure can be added at this stage, make sure the trees are upright and firm in well with your heel so the tree cannot be removed with a firm tug. Use a tree guard and support as necessary. A sturdy, sharp planting spade will make this job easier and faster. After planting, a 1m area should be kept weed free around each tree for 3 years.
Q: Creating a wildlife hedge
How can I create a hedge for the maximum benefit of wildlife?
A:
For this purpose we suggest the use of 50% hawthorn, 15% Blackthorn, 15% Field maple, 10% Hazel, 10% Wild Privet (evergreen). Other species such as Dogwood, Spindle, Buckthorn, Holly and Wild roses can be added for extra interest. (click here)
Remove all weeds from the planting line using an appropriate herbicide and plant mixed double staggered rows between November and March.
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